Southern Sudan: Mundari herders caught between cattle, conflict and consumerism

Four hours north of Juba, cattle dictate the pace of life. Yet the daily life of the Mundari ethnic group is also marked by Southern Sudan's war and ethnic conflicts. Yet what about the aspirations of the young? By Eric Lafforgue

  • Winter grazing: a column of smoke appears on the horizon: this is the Mundari's winter camp, a few kilometres away from the town of Terekeka. The tribe migrates here in search of new pastures for their cows. Herds of cattle have to cross the Nile – a scary moment for the tribe because of the risk of losing some animals to the fast-moving current
  • Part of the family: every morning, each cow is given a vigorous ash massage to remove parasites and keep the hide shiny. Even their horns are dusted off. Cows are everything to the Mundari: Without them, they cannot marry, trade, or survive during famines. Being forced to sell a cow is always is a heart-breaking moment
  • Arab heritage: time for a break is always an opportunity to smoke some shisha. It reflects the Mundari's northern Arab heritage. In 2011, Sudan split into two countries. For decades, the Mundari clashed with visitors from the north running away from Sharia law imposed by the government in Khartoum
  • Scarred for life: these scars on the forehead represent the rite of passage to adulthood for young Mundari. They are also used to identify individuals. But ritual scarification can also prove to be a death sentence: a single knife is used to cut dozens of young people in a row, increasing the risk of spreading hepatitis and HIV
  • Peace at a price: the recent signing of a fragile peace deal between President Salva Kiir and his opponents means many soldiers are no longer needed. This sudden influx of middle-aged men looking for wives has caused the price of dowry to skyrocket from 20 to 40 cows. One cow costs € 642 – a real fortune in a country where the average monthly wage is just € 46
  • Sunset alarm: a Mundari man blows into a cow horn, producing a hollow sound that resonates for miles. This act is how they call their cattle. But it's a risky moment: raids are common, and herders are killed every year by the Dinka people. It's not uncommon to come across thousands of animals being herded back to the capital to be sold, accompanied by men equipped with rocket launchers and heavy machine guns
  • A new dawn for the tribe? Young Mundari people dream of a better life in the future. Most of them only know the outside world through their smartphone screens. Their wish may come true: the modern world is on its way, but it will also upset a fragile balance. China is financing and building a highway that will link Juba to Terekeka in less than an hour – or so the billboards say